Surfing Is Mental

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The waves are the object of meditation.

The mind directs attention to the waves.

We get distracted, we realise we got distracted.

We come back to the waves.

There’s something different in this one that is coming.

I might not paddle it.

It passed underneath me.

Next one is coming. I can see it forming in front of my eyes.

The connection is established, I’m coming for it.

I observe my breath.

I can notice agitation and excitement.

Entering the flow now.

Breathing on the wave.

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